First Look: Charming Space and Dishes at Onēsan Dim Sum and Sushi | Dallas Observer

First Look

Onēsan Dim Sum and Sushi is a Charming and Tasty North Dallas Treat

Katana crunch is a DIY adventure.
Katana crunch is a DIY adventure. Angie Quebedeaux
Onēsan Dim Sum and Sushi is a chic Asian restaurant on Inwood Road in North Dallas. It's been open for about a year now in the spot that was formerly the home of East Hampton Sandwich Company.

The owners of Onēsan [Oh-nee-sawn] also own the neighboring Republic Texas Tavern. The concept started as SevenWoks, an Asian-fusion delivery-only place that originally operated out of Republic’s kitchen during the pandemic. Based on the response from the neighborhood, it evolved into its own standalone restaurant.

It's an inviting place form the moment you approach. A covered outdoor patio connects to the main bar through a large window that's open on nice weather days. The patio is cleverly separated from the restaurant's neighbors at Village Burger Bar and Howdy Homemade Ice Cream by a wall of neatly trimmed greenery, which helps drown out the sound of the 50-plus kids who are usually running amok at those establishments on any given evening.

Step inside and you’ll find yourself in a more sophisticated but casual dining area. The bar is adorned with Japanese art and custom murals, and the traditional sushi bar seats eight if you like to watch the sushi chefs. The lighting sets a dim and intimate mood, and the music adds a touch of flair without drowning out conversation.

We visited during happy hour (Tuesday through Saturday, 4–6 p.m.), so we indulged in a smorgasbord of dishes both on and off the happy hour menu. If you're there for happy hour, you can score select traditional rolls, dim sum, craft cocktails and wine for $7 each. This is a steal considering the same dishes outside of happy hour range from $8 to $15.
click to enlarge Sweet shrimp and salmon nigiri at Onesan
Sweet shrimp and salmon nigiri.
Angie Quebedeaux
We kicked off our feast with the obligatory order of spicy edamame. You can go traditional with sea salt, but we opted for the spicier version with a garlic Szechuan and Fresno chili sauce. It was packed with flavor, hitting that sweet spot of savory with a little kick.

Next, were sesame hoisin meatballs. These tender beef and pork meatballs were served in a flavorful ginger scallion glaze.
click to enlarge
Sesame hoisin meatballs.
Angie Quebedeaux
With our appetites in full swing, we set our sights on the wild mushroom Rangoon, which came with five crispy and crunchy bites served atop a Szechuan chili and spicy mustard sauce. The filling was a bit of a surprise: more of a wild mushroom cream cheese sauce than a filling, but still tasty.

Our final happy hour plate was the hot and sour beef dumplings, beef-filled pockets of love served with a spiced black vinegar sauce. This was our favorite dish on the happy hour menu.

Even though our stomachs were saying otherwise, we couldn’t resist exploring more from the main menu. The Katana Crunch ($19) caught our attention and ended up stealing the show. The presentation of this dish is spectacular. It's served with five bite-sized pieces of crispy fried rice tucked neatly into a wooden box, accompanied by a bowl of spicy tuna, shisho and avocado and a soup spoon filled with a spicy ponzu. It was a DIY adventure for assembling the perfect bite.

To wrap up our feast, we indulged in salmon and sweet shrimp nigiri. We’ve eaten a lot of sweet shrimp along the way, and the sweet shrimp at Onēsan was incredibly fresh with a perfectly crunchy fried shrimp head. We wanted to try more dishes, but we had reached the limit. Guess that means we have the perfect excuse for a return visit.
click to enlarge Wild mushroom Rangoon at Onesan
Wild mushroom Rangoon are a delight.
Angie Quebedeaux
A few of the dishes we missed but will be on our hit list for next time include the crispy “monkey” balls, which are coconut rice balls with a spicy carrot ginger puree and Thai basil oil ($9). We saw several other guests in the restaurant enjoying these. Also on the list is the shrimp and lobster shumai ($18) and the char sui glazed ribs ($16).

And hold on to your chopsticks, because Onēsan has a special seasonal menu available on weekends. We accidentally got a peek at it when our waiter handed us what he thought was the happy hour menu, but it includes unique offerings like hairy crab, cherry salmon, snow crab and pork shumai, live scallop tiradito and golden eye yuzu honey.

Onēsan, 12300 Inwood Road. Tuesday – Wednesday, 4–9 p.m.; Thursday – Saturday, 4–10 p.m.; Sunday, 5–9 p.m.; closed Monday.
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Angie Quebedeaux is a freelance food writer for the Observer. A "ragin' Cajun" from Lafayette, she's been in Dallas since 2002. She is an HR director by day and loves to “laissez les bon temps rouler.”

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